Women's Fashion Elizabethan Era Men's Fashion Elizabethan Era

Dolores's interest in mode history dates from her teenage years when vintage clothes was widely available in thrift stores.

Queen Elizabeth I

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Elizabethan Fashion

The Elizabethan flow in costume design refers to that time encompassed by the reign of Queen Elizabeth I (from 1558–1603) during the Renaissance. The daughter of King Henry Viii and Ann Boleyn, Elizabeth became one of the world's almost famous monarchs. The style of clothing and fashions of the Elizabethan era are distinctive and hitting, easily recognizable today, and pop with designers of celebrated costume.

As in the Middle Ages, the fabrics used to create garments of the Elizabethans were wool and linen. Clothing worn by the upper classes also included silk, cotton, and other imported fabrics. Fashions worn by the elite inspired the wearing apparel of lower classes and rural women, though the cloth, weave, and embellishments improved with economic status.

The habiliment worn past Elizabethans looks heavy and overdone to many of us today. But whether in England during the period was cool and wet as northern Europe shivered in the grip of a mini Water ice Age. So the heaviness of Elizabethan fashion was out of necessity, yet is remembered as romantic and cute, and still pop equally seen at the Renaissance Festivals of modern times.

Elizabethan Mode Hallmarks

• Elaborate styles included farthingales and ruffs
• Stiff laced bodices created a apartment bosom
• Detachable sleeves made it like shooting fish in a barrel to change the await of a apparel
• Employ of cosmetics to create a stake face
• A cool climate encouraged layering of heavy fabrics

Elizabethan England: Historical Background

Elizabeth Tudor, girl of Henry VIII and Ann Boleyn ascended to the throne of England after the death of her half-sister Mary (daughter of Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon). Henry 8 had assumed the role every bit the leader of the Church in England when the Catholic Pope refused to grant Henry an disparateness from Catherine of Aragon. During those difficult times, the thought of liberty of religion was not on anyone's mind. Religion was a state establishment, and then the fight was over which organized religion would be the state faith.

England, at the time, was however basically a feudal club. Most people lived in the land. In Elizabethan family-based culture, the nuclear family, servants, and apprentices lived and worked in shut proximity. While women were subservient to men and performed the usual household chores, their work also included the intendance of livestock and kitchen garden; assistance at harvest; the making of cheese, butter, candles, and soap. Women commonly had basic medical skills, spun wool, and knit.

Employment opportunities included domestic service, laundry, and seamstress piece of work. The wife of a craftsman might assistance in the shop, the running of a business, or take over the business if widowed. Women earned coin by selling produce, eggs, butter, spun wool, and other items made or produced at home.

The population exploded during Elizabeth'southward reign despite widespread affliction, including several outbursts of plague. Irish rebellion, war with Spain, and a growing underclass of unemployed poor added to Elizabeth'south challenges. Merely in a fourth dimension when women were subservient to men, a woman ruled a great and powerful nation.

Elizabethan Clothing: Textiles

Linen and wool were the most common fabrics used during the Elizabethan era. As in the Heart Ages, people wore linen undergarments next to the skin. Linen, made from the flax plant, is comfortable, cool, and piece of cake to launder. In a time when people rarely washed their clothes, linen could be done and became softer with utilize.

• Wool keeps the trunk warm in cold weather, and cool in warm atmospheric condition. Wool produces long-lasting fabrics, takes dyes well, and does not absorb moisture.

• Fulled wool, or heavily felted wool is tough and durable. Felted wool, that is wool that is washed to shrink, was oftentimes and then dense that it did not need hemming as information technology would not unravel.
• Both wool and linen appeared in finer weaves for the upper classes. Linen, imported from France and the Depression Countries, appeared in heavy or finer weaves with Lawn being the finest weave.
• Imported cotton was used to create fabrics and blended with linen to make Fustian.
• For thick, dense fabrics, canvas was made of hemp.

The luxurious fashions depicted in Elizabethan artwork well-nigh often reflect the clothing worn by royalty, the nobility, and the aristocracy. The upper classes wore garments made of silk, satin, velvet, damask, and taffeta, in addition to wool and linen. Finer linens were bleached in the sun, embroidered, or cake printed. Fashionable embellishments included braiding, borders, embroidery, lace, guarding (ribbon trim), and gems or pearls sewn onto the cloth.

• Leather was used to make shoes, gloves, hats, belts, and men's doublets and breeches.
• Colors came from natural dyes that ofttimes faded, so even richly colored garments became muted over time. Chocolate-brown and gray, cheaper dyes, were the obvious choice of the lower classes. Blue, another somewhat inexpensive dye is associated with servants and apprentices. Blue fades easily, then a low-cal shade was predominant.
• Black, an expensive to make and very fashionable shade, popular in Spain, shows up often in imperial portraits of Elizabethan England, particularly for men.
• Two shades of ruddy frequently occur in Elizabethan vesture. A russet crimson, made from the institute chosen madder created a warm, homey hue, while a brighter scarlet red, made from imported dyes was reserved for royalty.

An example of damask - Italian, 14th century

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Elizabethan Way: The Layered Look

Undergarments made of linen were easy to wash, and often the simply garments that were laundered. Both men and women wore similar undershirts, much like the under tunics of the Middles Ages. Women'south under-gowns, or smocks, reached the knee or fell full length.

A kirtle was a long, slightly fitted apparel without a divers waistline, a simple garment similar to those worn during the Heart Ages. On elevation of this, a woman wore a bodice, several layers of petticoats (or skirts), and a cloak.

Layers were needed for comfort in the dank, damp climate of Elizabethan England.

Elizabethan costume - V shaped bodice, ruff, and split skirt with matching sleeves

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The Elizabethan Bodice

A bodice is a close-plumbing fixtures garment for the upper body. Elizabethan bodices were quite strong, astringent, and nearly masculine in a shape that presented wide shoulders, and a pocket-size waist like an inverted triangle. Some bodices drew into a narrow V shape at the waist as pictured on the right.

Necklines changed over the years. While low necklines were popular at the beginning and toward the finish of Elizabeth's reign, necklines were high in the center years.

Young, unmarried women wore lower bodice necklines. Often, a high necked smock, worn with a low necked bodice, created an interesting contrast between the heavy bodice fabric and the lighter muslin or linen of the smock.

Bodices often featured decorative tabs called pickadills at the waist. Likewise, with embellishment past rolls or wings at the armholes, the aforementioned bodice could appear quite different with detachable sleeves for multifariousness.

The fashionable aristocracy used whalebone (baleen) stiffening, willow wood, or steel in their bodices. A busk was an actress slice used for stiffening and was made from forest, os, or ivory, and fastened past a ribbon at the acme. The tiny ribbon oft seen today at the top center of a bra is a terminal reminder of the busk.

The flattened bosom and stiffened upper torso restricted upper body movement, so it was limited to the idle elite. Working women and commoners would take been unable to office with such restriction. Forepart laced bodices (and then popular with Renaissance Off-white attendees) were worn by working and common women. Dorsum laced bodices were express to women with servants. Bodices were fastened by lacing or with hook and eye.

Detachable sleeves added variety to a bodice (as mentioned above). The wide, cuffed trumpet shaped sleeves of the 1540s–1550s gave way to a narrower Spanish style sleeve. A loftier, wide advent with slashed upper sleeves evolved int shoulder loops, pads, and the elaborate shoulder rolls of the 1580s.

Simulated sleeves created an elegant style when elongated at the back to drape down to the flooring.

Elizabethan woman wearing lace ruff

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The Ruff: An Elizabethan Collar

One of the most distinctive elements of Elizabethan way is the exaggerated collar called a ruff.

Early, a gathered neckline produced a elementary ruffle at the neck. Later, a separate piece of detachable ruffle could be tied effectually the neck. The ruff became more than elaborate and eventually took on the gargantuan proportions that framed the face.

In 1565, the addition of starch created the ability to increase the size and height of the ruff. By 1580, ruffs became so massive that they required a wire framework for support. Ruffs were made of fine muslin or lace, or muslin trimmed with lace and often paired with matching cuffs at the wrist.

Late Elizabethan fashions included a falling ring, which was a separate, detachable collar fabricated of lace or embroidered linen.

Common women and state women often wore a chin fabric to protect their faces and skin from the dominicus and wind. They also wore a kerchief over their shoulders.

2 Londoners and a country woman: the lady on the left is wearing a coif on her head, the lady on the right is wearing a kerchief.

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Elizabethan Skirts and the Farthingale

Elizabethan style demanded a tight upper body paired with a voluminous lower torso. A heavy outer brim divide open up into an A-line shape in the center, revealed an attractive under-brim or petticoat. Sometimes the exposed under-brim or front end was paired with matching bodice sleeves.

While absurd weather created the need to wear several layers of petticoats for warmth, skirt size became an extreme fashion trend.

The Farthingale was the hoop skirt of Renaissance costume. Outset equally a padded roll to extend the width of the top of the skirt, it evolved into a hoop skirt—circular strips of whale bone (baleen), wood, or steel were inserted horizontally into the material of an underskirt.

Originating in Spain to create a dome-shaped skirt, a farthingale held brim textile away from the legs and offered ease of motility. A lower-course woman might habiliment a padded gyre for fashion likewise as convenience.

The wheel farthingale produced the exaggerated, huge skirt pictured below.

Skirts often featured hems or borders that could be hands replaced if worn out or soiled.

A belt or 'girdle' functioned as a hanger for conveying items such equally purses and bags for the aristocracy and common people of both genders.

Queen Elizabeth I wearing a wheeled farthingal

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Shoes of the Elizabethan period were generally blunt toed and flat, and made of leather or fabric. Women'southward dress shoes made of silk, velvet, or brocade were often decorated with embellishments.

Early Elizabethan slip-ons gave manner to laced or buckled shoes.

Almost shoes of the time were fabricated the same for both feet. Later wearing, the leather or fabric molded to the shape of the foot.

Platform or high heeled shoes originated for convenience. Pattens were tied on over shoes that held the foot up off the ground, protecting the shoe from clay, mud, or debris. Similarly, chopines fabricated of cork or wood lifted the human foot up abroad from debris or clay in workplaces, on roads, or in the street.

The Renaissance introduced the wearing of high heels for vanity and style. Mary Tudor (1/2 sis of Queen Elizabeth) wore high heels to improve her stature and appear more regal.

Woman wearing French hood

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Elizabethan Hair, Hats, and Face

Women wore their hair long when young and unmarried, frequently adding headbands or circlets of fresh flowers. After marriage, women pinned up and covered their hair. Stylish women added hair extensions, gilded bondage, pearls, or feathers int elaborately braided or twisted hairstyles.

A coif was a close-plumbing fixtures cap made of linen, sometimes referred to equally a Mary Stuart cap (after Mary Queen of Scots) who wore one in a famous portrait. A Woman might habiliment a hat on meridian of a coif.

Early Elizabethan women wore a French hood, a fabric bonnet shaped with wires, a mode introduced to England by Elizabeth's mother, Ann Boleyn. The half-moon or crescent-shaped style was a glorified head-ring with a veil attached at the rear.

The Attifet, similar to the French hood, dipped in the center to create a eye shape, frequently decorated with the addition of lace.

A caul was an bonny hair net or snood, worn simply or festooned with decorations such as pearls or chaplet.

Between 1568–1574, Sumptuary laws (an old fashioned method of keeping people in their identify by regulating attire) required all women, unless gentlewomen, the wives of nobility, to cover their hair.

A kercher or kerchief, a triangular piece of muslin tied around the caput and was worn nether a chapeau.

Women also wore pillbox hats, flat hats (like a beret), and small brimmed hats like to men'southward hats.

The ideal Elizabethan face up was pale and sometimes highlighted by the application of cosmetics—rouge for the cheeks and a bit of color on the lips. Occasionally, eyelids were tinted. Cosmetics were used by the fashion elite and were lead-based products.

Perfume was popular for both men and women and almost necessary at a time when bathing was rare.

Queen Elizabeth in attifet and ruff

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Elizabethan flat chapeau

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Woman wearing coif

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Children were dressed as adults for special occasions and in portraits.

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For Further Reading

Costume and Styles: The Evolution of Fashion From Early Egypt to the Present past Henny Harald Hansen: E.P. Dutton & Co.

Daily Life in Elizabethan England, by Jeffrey L. Singman; Greenwood Press

English language Costume in the Age of Elizabeth by Iris Brooke

Elizabethan Costuming for the Years 1550 - 1580 past Janet Wintertime

Encyclopedia of Habiliment and Fashion; edited past Valerie Steele: Scribner Library

Encyclopedia of the Renaissance; Scribners

For more reading on Queen Elizabeth's fashions, check outhttp://world wide web.elizabethancostume.net/influence.html

Questions & Answers

Question:

How were cosmetics made in Elizabethan England? What were they made of? Why did people think having a pale face was a tendency of some kind

Answer: A stake face up indicated high condition. Women who worked outdoors on farms were exposed to the dominicus which tans the skin. The pale face up shows that a woman spends her time indoors or protected from sun and wind. The thick makeup was besides supposed to hibernate the effects of crumbling. Ceruse was a mixture of white lead and vinegar used as confront makeup that made a woman await very white. A combination of egg white and talcum powder was also popular. Cheeks and lips were reddened with madder. Kohl was used as eyeliner. Belladonna centre drops made eyes await brilliant (it's poison). Women also plucked their eyebrows equally thin, arching eyebrows were seen as beautiful.

Question: Were there any strict rules about wearable in Elizabethan England?

Reply: Elizabeth I enacted the Proclamation Confronting Excess in 1597. The police force was supposed to curb excessive spending on luxury goods. There was a fear that the lower classes, specially the merchant classes were dressing to a higher place their station. Also, many luxurious garments were made of imported fabrics and the government wanted to make sure the English material industry did not suffer.

The law allowed sure people to wear specific types of clothes. The most extravagant fabrics such equally royal satin and gold embroidered cloth were reserved for royalty. Anyone of a status lower than a knight could not wear velvet outer garments. A knight's eldest son was allowed to wear a velvet doublet just his younger brothers could not.

For more than information, Google Elizabeth I'south Declaration Confronting Excess 1597.

Question: How has Elizabethan fashion survived throughout the ages?

Answer: In that location is only one remnant of one of Elizabeth 1'due south dresses. Chosen the Bacton Chantry Material, it was found at St. Faith'south Church in Bacton, Herefordshire. But elements of that fashion practise pop up occasionally, Remember of the hoop skirts of the mid-1800s also as the tiny waisted, broad skirts of the late 1940s and early 1950s.

Question: Is there any insight as to who were the designers of these dresses and designs?

Reply: The fashion designer equally nosotros understand the concept was non in evidence during the Elizabethan era. Clothing styles were influenced past the Queen and Elizabeth herself is known as a great influence on fashion. She left detailed records of her sense of style in wardrobe accounts that included information on textiles, where they were bought, and how much they toll. Way followed the monarch, for case, Henry Viii'due south size and girth led to men wearing large, puffy garments to emulate the king. Elizabeth I was minor, pocket-size-breasted, and slim so costume for women reflected her effigy.

New styles were brought in from other countries. The Castilian farthingale was introduced to England by Katharine of Aragon, the kickoff wife of Henry Eight. During the reign of Elizabeth I, the idea of starching ruffs was introduced by the married woman of a Flemish coachman. ( Mrs. Nevill Johnson, May 1903 "The Connoisseur an Illustrated Magazine for Collectors"). When the queen fancied a particular fashion concept, she brought in strange tailors and dressmakers, or imported garments from other countries.

Clothing styles were also influenced past law. Certain textiles, colors, and garment cuts were mandated past sumtuary police which regulated habiliment according to status. For instance, gold and silvery embellished garments could only be worn by the royal family. Imperial silk could just be worn by the purple family. Law mandated what the nobility could wear. This even extended to birth society.

So the styles worn during the period were influenced by many people including tailors and dressmakers. The concept of the unique style designer who was a celebrity in their own correct came much later.

© 2011 Dolores Monet

Dolores Monet (writer) from East Coast, United States on July 03, 2012:

Hi, Textiles - I put the image up there as information technology is labeled "Italian polychrome damask, 14the century," institute while researching fabrics. I thought damask was one color too, but the one colour seems, from reading, to be a more mod concept. The departure seems, to me, to be that damask is reversible while brocade is non. And, I am thinking that brocade has a flake more polish to it than damask.

Thank you lot very much for your comment. I capeesh your input.

Textiles/History Prof on June 29, 2012:

Hi, I'm not sure why this image is labelled as damask...? These look like brocades to me. Damask is basically just one color with the patterns made solely by the contrast in calorie-free reflection from dissimilar weave structures.

Dolores Monet (writer) from East Coast, U.s.a. on June eleven, 2012:

Hi MsLizzy - that must take been wonderful. And I like the commoners clothing best for Renaissance Fairs - information technology is much more than simple and comfortable than the clothing of the rich.

Liz Elias from Oakley, CA on June 08, 2012:

No wonder they thought they were existence rushed if they had "only" 2 hours to get dressed!

Well washed!

We played at a Ren Faire with a music and dance troupe many years ago, when my kids were young. Our costumes were simple: we were 'commoners.' ;-) It was fun play-acting, and rolling our "rennaissance" cart with our instruments through the throngs yelling, "Maaaake--Waaaay--aaay!!"

Dolores Monet (author) from East Declension, United States on April 21, 2012:

rontlog - the idea of all those pearls stitched into the material - how beautiful! But the concept that diamonds are so expensive (I think) is considering the market is controlled and the amount of diamonds is artificially limited. Thank you for dropping by!

rontlog from England on April 19, 2012:

A fabulous hub! I really enjoyed reading it.

I recently read that during this period pearls were highly valued and the most expensive items of jewellery. As a result, many of Elizabeths dresses are encrusted with rows of pearls stitched onto the material.

They remained pop until Louise the (?th) of France became king (The Dominicus Male monarch). He had a love of diamonds and they became more fashionable that pearls. That is why today, diamonds are more than expensive than pearls.

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